On the way, we're reminded of the common threads of history here...Celtic settlements eventually fall to Roman conquest. When the Roman empire falls, a strong (sometimes evil, always larcenous it seems) prince emerges, makes arrangements and sometimes war with the neighboring princes, and if his family line survives that long, trades dominance over his turf with the French. So much blood soaking into so many small chunks of land. Little wonder the ubiquitous wild red poppies carry such significance.
But here we are today, in moderately more peaceful times. The castle is accessed via a series of switchbacks that our full-size touring bus had no right to be able to traverse. But we never got stuck on the rock wall nor tumbled down the bluff, and clambered out, relieved, for a morning on cobblestones.
The castles were universally built on high outcroppings with good sightlines. Enemies approaching were, quite literally, in mortal danger. With groundwater levels high, a moat could be filled quickly. The drawbridge was easily operated, and flanked by a narrow mini-bridge in case of an off-schedule messenger's arrival. Unexpected visitors entered through a short, narrow doorway which assured the quick demise of any imposter.
On happier notes, there were extensive gardens and a theater built for the pleasure of the Princess, and very possibly the largest wine barrel in the world. The peasants tithed to the king...10% of crops, wine, and children. The kids were put to work or military service; it was common for women to bear a child every year. Childhood mortality also took its toll on family size. A challenging life if you didn't happen to be the fellow in power!
The castle and many of the local buildings are constructed of local red sandstone, beautiful but not durable. The Neckar river had flooded large parts of the area just 2 days ago; while the river was back within its banks today, it was running high and fast; many locals were dealing with flooded basements, sandstone damage, and repairs to flooded vehicles.
A point of interest, though, was highlighted by the floods. Right beside the town center, there's a reef in the river ... showing clearly as a frothy crescent in the fast-flowing water. Mark Twain was returning to town from upriver, and the barge he was on crashed into the reef; he had to swim to shore. Then he was back in the town of blueberries ... "huckle" berries. These components sparked the ideas for "Tom Sawyer" and "Huckleberry Finn!"We enjoyed a walking tour of the town center, including a memorial cobblestone for a Jewish shopkeeper who perished in WWII. A Calvinist church (no ornamentation) dominated the center of town, with many restaurants & shops on nearby streets.
The cutest local specialty is "student kisses" ... a cookie with caramel & chocolate in the shape of a pair of lips. In the days when young men and young ladies had no private contact, a swain could invite a lass for coffee, and if bold enough, present her with this sweet. If she accepted it, that stood in for a hug. Should she actually unwrap it...a future kiss! Times are different now.
And finally, my nomination for a slogan that just didn't translate well...a fashionable accessory shop billing itself as "Design Schmuck" ... yep, you can't make this stuff up!
We returned to the boat, which had headed a bit further downstream. It was a tiring outing...had a nap attack, dinner, and so to bed.
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