Addendum: wrap up thoughts & cross stitch progress

Having had a lovely drift down the Rhine, I then hung out with a college classmate (and fellow widow) in The Hague for a couple of weeks.  We have a nice time, basically being roommates in her spacious row house.  Some days we do stuff, some days we just loll around the house.  A REAL vacation!  And the rose bush in front of her window was having a spectacular year. 



We did pick up some culture; an exhibit of photographs by Robin dePuy was interesting at the Fotomuseum.  She was able to borrow a Harley and a cinematographer and ride across America for several months, shooting portraits of people she met along the way.  If you like portraits, keep an eye out for a chance to look at hers, she has quite an eye.


The chauffeur who picked me up at the dock turned out also to have an Indian-cuisine restaurant (just a short hop from his Pakistani heritage).  We went there for dinner one evening and it was quite a treat.  Look up "The Clay Oven" if you're in the area, you won't be disappointed!

Another afternoon was devoted to visiting with a friend who's a crafts artist.  Right now she's making embellished rubber gloves and a wide variety of useful cloth "pockets" and tote bags.  Just the thing to slip a book or other small gift into for a pretty and useful presentation.  We had a lovely tea and cookies chat, overlooking her flourishing garden.


Of course, we made a trek to the fabulous kitchen store downtown (we met up with this marching band while waiting for the bus to get home), and the fabulous sweet shop in the neighborhood, and the fabulous yarn shop which has expanded to include quilting & other craft supplies, and the fabulous pedicurist who's married to the podiatrist -- so no need to wave off the nail enamel, just whisk away the tired old calluses.  Heaven!

We made some dinners from spice assortments I'm receiving in a subscription from the Raw Spice Bar, based in Los Angeles.  Each month you receive several spice packets and recipes that use them, themed to a particular country.  Excellent spices, and very fun recipes.  If you're looking for a good remembrance for a foodie ... check them out. 

The funniest thing that happened was Bruce Springsteen.  He had a HUGE concert in an outdoor venue just a few bus stops away from the house.  Once he was well underway, we went outside for a few minutes to pick up some of the tunes.  He came through pretty well, but even better were the tens-of-thousands of fans singing along ... QUITE the accomplished backup singers, indeed.

After these weeks of adapting fully to the laid-back pace and small scale of The Netherlands, it finally was time to go on home.  It's much louder, both on a noise and a visual basis, here in the States.

I mentioned the cross-stitch...an seemingly-endless project by a very talented designer.  It's ridiculously complex, but is coming together as a beautiful piece.  Here are the before and after images ... looks pretty good, but there's an entire border to go!

Addendum: Strasbourg Storks!

Our social director got several fine shots of the storks in Strasbourg, and here they are.  Keep in mind these large nests are atop causeway trees, just between the sidewalk and street and very close to the houses on that road.  Nature rocks!

Saturday, June 4 -- Polders

The scenery has changed dramatically now, as we've left any vestige of mountainous terrain far behind.  The land is very flat, and the high river waters sometimes seem to spread out forever.  Rather than rocky outcrops, the river edge is defined by high, grassy dikes.



We dock at Kinderdijk, a small village that supports a cluster of windmills which were erected to remove water from this low-lying area.  We're told that over half of the country is "man-made land," where dikes have been erected and water removed to form "polders' -- land that's below sea level, but now is farmed, protected by the barriers.





The windmills no longer pump water (powered pumps do that today), but they are in high demand as residences!  One is maintained as a museum where we can see the inner workings; residents are required to operate their windmill regularly so as to keep the machinery in good working order.

This photo shows the huge Archimedes screws which move the water up and over the dikes, to be deposited back into the river.  A very durable invention indeed.

We had a good education on the original construction and operation of the mills; many details are copied from nautical models, and there were challenges to overcoming the limitations imposed by using only wind power.  A very impressive engineering feat for those days.









We got back to the boat as a grand lightning show began, and thunder rumbled all around us.  However the rain stayed just far enough away, and we were back on board at 5:25 for a 5:30 cast-off.

A quick refresher, and then time for the Captain's farewell dinner and to settle up any shipboard expenses.  I enjoyed the "deconstructed Beef Wellington" which was both pretty and tasty.  Seems like this lovely visit is ending too soon.

Friday, June 3 -- Cologne confusion

As usual, we had assigned coaches for our transport to a walking tour of Cologne and its impressive cathedral.  I was surprised to find my assigned "coach" to be a van holding about 16, and not enough seats for all assigned to it.  Unusual!  Turns out that the buses assigned to us had arrived at the usual docking place -- across the river from where we actually were.  It would take too long for them to come to us, so all other available vehicles were dispatched to resolve the crisis.

Timing is important on this cruise as either an afternoon excursion or an actual cast-off limits how long we have in any one town.  In this case there were afternoon tours AND an early evening cast-off that made it important for many of us to get back to the boat for a quick lunch and new destination. 

Our guide had a wonderfully sly sense of humor, and was remarkably well-educated about the cathedral and Gothic architecture & Medieval times.  This massive cathedral was built in several phases over a couple hundred years, and is engineered to be able to stand forever. 

In addition to the awe-inspiring structure soaring above our heads, the floors were a marvel of tiny mosaic tiles.

these detailed patterns and many more covered hundreds of square yards of floor space; the tiles are no more than 1/2" square and in many cases cut irregularly in order to fit precisely where needed.




These floors surrounded the gold-plated and richly decorated chest that contains relics from the Magi, the three kings who visited Jesus, Mary and Joseph by following the star.  These relics were a big selling point for the creation of the cathedral -- a unique draw for pilgrims from all around.  We'll never know what's REALLY in the chest, but it's a marvel of effectiveness from very early advertising.

Some views of the building ... yes it IS as vast as it appears to be!

In addition to the many pillars and sculptures, of course there were massive and beautiful stained glass windows.  One in particular was quite modern, patterns of squares that, when the sun is high in the sky, throw beautiful light across the chapel.  This modern contribution, while quite different from the depictions of Biblical scenes and saints in the other windows, actually has a very ancient inspiration:  the third of the Ten Commandments ... make no graven images.  Food for thought!





Our final piece of education was about how to "read" the large stained-glass windows.  Each was sponsored by some rich and important man, and looking at the various panes, an interesting story developed.  The sponsor is shown kneeling with a saint (ranking of saint roughly comparable to ranking of rich man), who is physically urging the oh-so-modest rich man into accepting a role of responsibility.  The other panels on that level showed saints and other holy folks who were of appropriate stature to be supportive of the important man, and in many cases accompanied by images of OTHER important men who were allies.  Surrounding all this were the coats-of-arms of allies of secondary importance ... all in all, a clear statement of power to those who knew the code. 

We had a few extra minutes before returning to the bus, and learned that large parts of the downtown area are still built on Roman foundations.  "Downtown" is delimited by the old Roman wall (much as the Chicago Loop is delimited by the El tracks), and where the watchtowers were -- we still have round buildings, due to the round foundations!

Back to the boat for a relaxed afternoon and evening, everyone's beginning to be sure to touch base with new friends and be sure to be able to keep in touch going forward.

Wednesday, June 1 -- Heidelberg (we meet up with Mark Twain)

Up and out early again, setting out for Heidelberg, its protective castle (now, in something of an oxymoron, a well-maintained ruin), and the college town itself.

On the way, we're reminded of the common threads of history here...Celtic settlements eventually fall to Roman conquest.  When the Roman empire falls, a strong (sometimes evil, always larcenous it seems) prince emerges, makes arrangements and sometimes war with the neighboring princes, and if his family line survives that long, trades dominance over his turf with the French.  So much blood soaking into so many small chunks of land.  Little wonder the ubiquitous wild red poppies carry such significance.

But here we are today, in moderately more peaceful times.  The castle is accessed via a series of switchbacks that our full-size touring bus had no right to be able to traverse.  But we never got stuck on the rock wall nor tumbled down the bluff, and clambered out, relieved, for a morning on cobblestones.

The castles were universally built on high outcroppings with good sightlines.  Enemies approaching were, quite literally, in mortal danger.  With groundwater levels high, a moat could be filled quickly.  The drawbridge was easily operated, and flanked by a narrow mini-bridge in case of an off-schedule messenger's arrival.  Unexpected visitors entered through a short, narrow doorway which assured the quick demise of any imposter.




On happier notes, there were extensive gardens and a theater built for the pleasure of the Princess, and very possibly the largest wine barrel in the world.  The peasants tithed to the king...10% of crops, wine, and children.  The kids were put to work or military service; it was common for women to bear a child every year.  Childhood mortality also took its toll on family size.  A challenging life if you didn't happen to be the fellow in power!

The castle and many of the local buildings are constructed of local red sandstone, beautiful but not durable.  The Neckar river had flooded large parts of the area just 2 days ago; while the river was back within its banks today, it was running high and fast; many locals were dealing with flooded basements, sandstone damage, and repairs to flooded vehicles.


A point of interest, though, was highlighted by the floods.  Right beside the town center, there's a reef in the river ... showing clearly as a frothy crescent in the fast-flowing water.  Mark Twain was returning to town from upriver, and the barge he was on crashed into the reef; he had to swim to shore.  Then he was back in the town of blueberries ... "huckle" berries.  These components sparked the ideas for "Tom Sawyer" and "Huckleberry Finn!"

We enjoyed a walking tour of the town center, including a memorial cobblestone for a Jewish shopkeeper who perished in WWII.  A Calvinist church (no ornamentation) dominated the center of town, with many restaurants & shops on nearby streets.

The cutest local specialty is "student kisses" ... a cookie with caramel & chocolate in the shape of a pair of lips.  In the days when young men and young ladies had no private contact, a swain could invite a lass for coffee, and if bold enough, present her with this sweet.  If she accepted it, that stood in for a hug.  Should she actually unwrap it...a future kiss!  Times are different now.

And finally, my nomination for a slogan that just didn't translate well...a fashionable accessory shop billing itself as "Design Schmuck" ... yep, you can't make this stuff up!

We returned to the boat, which had headed a bit further downstream.  It was a tiring outing...had a nap attack, dinner, and so to bed.

Tuesday, May 31 -- our French connection

Today we tour Strasbourg, France.  The Rhine is the boundary between France and Germany for quite a distance, and the town's on the riverbanks have seen many changes of control over the years.  Our guide described some of the challenges and survival practicalities of living in a place that had "changed countries" (and, p.s., RELIGIONS therefor!) four times in a short 75 years ... within the lifespan of many citizens.  I am reminded of the constant presence of war and conquest really everywhere here.

But these are better times, and the two governments are partnering on a new rail bridge which will allow fast train service all the way to Paris.  The structure itself is beautiful, and the common goal encouraging.

We drove past a large park edged with tree-lined streets.  Almost every tree hosted a high-up stork nest, and we were able to see both parents and chicks from time to time.  The birds return to the same nest year after year, and seem to be welcome neighbors.

There are several pan-European administrative bodies here, including an overwhelmed European Court which has become too popular for its staffing.  Sounds like home!

After the bus tour, we walked through areas of the old city.  Various streets celebrated the different medieval guilds, and we heard the joyful noise of school kids at recess.  Due both to being a river town and an old one, we learned, the attics were extensively cornered to make them effective storage sites.  Well above high water and hard for varmints to get to, and ventilated and lighted by the dormers.

Of course, we end up at the cathedral square.  This cathedral is massive and open ... advanced had been made in architecture which meant interior walls weren't required for support.  Many of the stained glass windows had been stored remotely during WWII, and a large rose window had been rebuilt with a nod to the then-contemporary European Union.

But the real stunner was the clock.  No mere timepiece, this rose practically to the ceiling and was some 15' wide.  A watchmaker winds and maintains it weekly.  It tells time in several ways: the apostles pass in front of Jesus one at a time, marking the hours.  A child, a young man, an adult, and an old man pass in front of a skeleton one at a time on the quarter hour (the 4 phases of life).  Next down is an analog clock with the zodiac indicated around the hours and an accurate current position for each of the planets (hooray, Pluto!) and our moon.  At floor level, there is on the left a figure which moves only at midnight of the new year, when the clockmaker also sets a leap year when needed.  In the center is a sphere showing the current phase of the moon, the illuminated portion being in gold plate.  This also indicates the correct date this year for church holidays based on Lunar calculations, such as Easter.  The panel on the right holds some  watchmaker's arcane secret, or so we were told.  This heroic feat was accomplished just two years after the fact that the planets rotate around the sun was established.  Remarkable!

We had some free time to explore...and shop...and then met up again with our guide.  A different route back to the bus with tales is slaughterhouses along the river, and places where the condemned were put to difficult deaths.  Medieval times were rough ones.

Lunch back on the boat, and shuttle service ran back and forth several times in the afternoon.  But I succumbed to a nap and the enjoyed making progress on the needlework while drinking in this lovely vista.  Can't complain about that!

Monday, May 30 -- The Black Forest

And, "Happy Birthday, Gabe !"

Up a bit early as the bus leaves at 8:30 sharp.  While the tours don't feel rushed, they DO run on time!

The breakfast buffet features an omelet station and those wonderfully crunchy Danish pastries, along with hot and cold cereals, fruits, and such.  It's easy to leave feeling that you're well-fortified until lunch.

It was grey and rainy today, with no respite forecasted.  So now I am the proud owner of a way-more-than-competent rain jacket, which has been a missing component for a long while.  Plus one can borrow a monster red Viking umbrella.  Well-protected!

The drive out took us through increasingly agricultural lands, many have been farmed for thousands of years.  The territory was formed millennia ago when the rift that became the Rhine was created.  It's said that the remains of that volcanic activity keep the region a few degrees warmer than expected to this day!

There were two opportunities to hike a bit, and I had thought I'd do the shorter one.  But somehow I stepped off of the bus and into a reality gap of some kind ... despite FOUR BUSSES of people from the ship, I soon didn't see a single familiar face.  Nor could I locate our guide.  So taking the hint, I enjoyed the several presentations of local crafts (cuckoo clock and other timepieces, glassblowing, the required Black Forest cake).  It was pleasant and informative, if a tad eerie.

Everyone was back on the bus right on time, and we enjoyed a different but equally scenic way back to the dock.  These riverbank docks are certainly secure, but you'd have to know what you're looking for ... no fancy terminals or equipment.  Just tie up for a while and then head on out.

One nice topic our guide covered was the gradual restoration of various wild animals into the area.  Between the fall of the "Iron Curtain" and more direct efforts to assist wildlife, critters from salmon to wolves are repopulating old haunts.  Nice!

Back at the boat, I again succumbed to a nap attack.  Again woke up and got some needlework done, and then it was time for the "Captain's Toast." A free glass of Champaign and another chance to applaud for the leadership team.

Off to dinner; tried to connect with a couple whose company I've enjoyed, but that table was full. Sat with a couple from South Africa who were great company, and we received a substantial benefit: a large neighboring table had commissioned a large birthday cake, but it was too much for them in the end.  We were graced with two excess pieces... of a really GOOD cake... and certainly enjoyed them.

Now getting ready for sleep; tomorrow is our day in Strasbourg and another early start.  Practice makes perfect!